Savory Tang Yuan (Glutinous Rice Balls, 鹹湯圓)
Many of us think about the winter solstice merely as the shortest day of the year, but in Chinese culture it is a very important festival. Dongzhi (冬至), which literally translates to “the extreme of winter,” has its theoretical underpinning in the concept of yin yang (陰陽 / 阴阳). It is both a celebration of the shortest day of the year and the return of longer daylight in the weeks ahead. Note that dong zhi is the Mandarin pronunciation; in Cantonese, it is dong zee.
In southern China, families gather together to make and eat tang yuan (湯圓 / 汤圆) for dongzhi. (Tang yuan, which is how it’s most commonly spelled in English, is based on the Mandarin pronunciation; in Cantonese, it is tong yoon.) Tang yuan are small circular dumplings made with glutinous rice flour and water. The circular shape of the dumplings symbolizes one’s family coming together (or tuanyuan, 團圓 / 团圆). Some families make the sweet version of tang yuan. However, in Toisan (台山), where my family is from, people often cook tang yuan in a savory broth with seafood, vegetables, and meat.
Mama Lin typically prepares a broth that is flavored with chicken stock, dried shrimp, Chinese sausage, shallots/onions, and sometimes lean pork. To serve, she’ll top the bowl of tang yuan with cooked daikon, fried fish cake, scallions, and cilantro. It is the ultimate winter comfort food!
SAVORY TANG YUAN COOKING NOTES
Here are a few brands of glutinous rice flour from Thailand. My mom usually uses the one on the right (Erawan brand)
USING GLUTINOUS RICE FLOUR
To make tang yuan, you must use glutinous rice flour. My mom typically uses Erawan brand’s glutinous rice flour (from Thailand), which comes in see-through plastic bags with a green label. You can find the flour in Asian grocery stores or on Amazon.
Do not use regular rice flour, as the rice balls will not turn chewy. If glutinous rice flour is difficult for you to find, you can try using sweet rice flour (such as Mochiko). Note that sweet rice flour/Mochiko tends to be a coarser grind compared to Thai-style glutinous rice flour, so the rice balls won’t be as silky soft.
MAKING TANG YUAN DOUGH WITH ROOM TEMP WATER
When Mama Lin started learning how to cook tang yuan, she made the dough with boiling hot water. Hot water turns glutinous rice flour into a very stretchy, pliable dough. If you ever make tang yuan with filling, you must make the dough with hot water so that you can easily manipulate the dough around the filling.
Because this style of savory tang yuan has no filling, you do not need to make the dough with hot boiling water. For the past decade or so, my mom has been using room temperature water to make the dough because it is a lot easier to handle. This “cold-water dough,” as my mom calls it, is much easier to knead and the dough doesn’t stick to your hands when you roll it into balls. Once cooked, the texture of the tang yuan made with hot water or cold water are about the same.
The drawback of the cold-water dough is that the raw rice balls can stick to each other or the plate they’re sitting on. As you roll out the balls and transfer them to a plate, make sure the balls don’t touch each other. When you are ready to drop the rice balls into the broth, invert the plate and gently brush them off. You’ll see that a tiny bit of dough will be stuck to the plate, but don’t stress about it. Mama Lin, ever the resourceful one, scrapes off and collects the dough to make one last tang yuan.
COOKING THE DAIKON
One key element to Mama Lin’s savory tang yuan is daikon (which we call 蘿蔔/萝卜, lo bak in Cantonese). Mama Lin prefers using what she calls “Chinese daikon,” which is long and plump versus “Japanese daikon,” which is long and thin. She claims that the Japanese variety of daikon is more bitter, though I can’t say I’ve noticed much difference.
To cook the daikon, she boils it with dried shrimp for umami flavor, as well as a small chunk of rock sugar (冰糖, bing tang). The sugar helps balance out the slight bitter flavors of daikon. Rock sugar can be difficult to find, so you can replace that with 2 teaspoons of sugar.
My mom always buys fish paste from a fishmonger in Chinatown or Asian supermarkets. In Sacramento, I’ve been able to find some at 99 Ranch Market. I like to add scallions to the fish paste to give them extra flavor. If fish paste is difficult to find, you can replace them with fish balls (found in frozen sections of Asian grocery stores) or Japanese-style fried fish cake (also found in Asian grocery stores).
CAN YOU MAKE THE TANG YUAN AHEAD?
Yes! Line a large plate with a sheet of parchment paper. Then, arrange the uncooked tang yuan over the lined plate, making sure the balls don’t touch each other. Once they harden, transfer the tang yuan to a freezer bag or container. I recommend defrosting the tang yuan before cooking them.
Savory Tang Yuan (鹹湯圓)
I use a scale to measure my flour and a few other ingredients, and I recommend doing the same if you have one.
To make the glutinous rice balls, you must use glutinous rice flour. We typically use Erawan brand’s glutinous rice flour (from Thailand), which comes in see-through plastic bags with a green label. You can find the flour in Asian grocery stores or on Amazon. Do not use regular rice flour, as the rice balls will not turn chewy. If glutinous rice flour is difficult for you to find, you can try using sweet rice flour (such as Mochiko). Note that sweet rice flour/Mochiko tends to be a coarser grind compared to Thai-style glutinous rice flour, so the rice balls won’t be as silky soft.
When cooking the daikon, my mom likes to sweeten it with yellow rock sugar, which she purchases in Asian grocery stores (also available on Amazon). Many of you probably don’t have that in your pantry, so you can use granulated or any other type of sugar.
Glutinous Rice Balls
2 1/3 cups (250g) glutinous rice flour use spoon-and-sweep method for volume measurement1 cup (235mL) room temperature water
1 medium daikon (about 550 to 600 grams) peeled1 1/2 tablespoons oil any neutral oil like vegetable, sunflower, etc.3 cloves garlic smashed1/4 cup (15g) dried shrimp rinsed1 1/4 cups (295mL) water1 small piece of rock sugar (about 8 grams) or 2 teaspoons granulated sugar1/2 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt or 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1 lb (454g) fish paste from Asian grocery stores (see note 1)3 tablespoons sliced scallions optionaloil for pan frying fish cake
2 tablespoons oil any neutral oil like vegetable, canola, sunflower, etc.1 large shallot thinly sliced (about 3/4 cup)2 links of Chinese sausages sliced3 cups (710mL) chicken broth I used Better Than Bouillon1/2 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt or 1/4 teaspoon sea salt, plus more to taste3 tablespoons sliced scallions2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
Make Glutinous Rice Balls
Cook Fish Cake
My mom says that adding the salt too early will cause the daikon to turn slightly bitter.
Freezing Directions: Line a large plate with a sheet of parchment paper. Then, arrange the uncooked tang yuan over the lined plate, making sure the balls don’t touch each other. Once they harden, transfer the tang yuan to a freezer bag or container. I recommend defrosting the tang yuan before cooking them.
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